Tuesday 3 November 2015

Banana Fiber-The Latest Sustainable Trend




Plant fibers have been used for making paper and clothing for a long time and the need for use of natural fibres has increased greatly. Among natural fibres, 90 per cent are of vegetable origin and among them 80 per cent is constituted by cotton and the remaining by other long vegetable fibres like flax, jute, hemp, sisal, ramie, coir, abaca, banana and pineapple fibres.
Banana

The bananas or the plantains are essentially hot climate plants. Their original home is said to be the tropical forests of Asia.
All varieties of banana trees abound in fibres. In fact almost each and every part of this plant gives fibres of various strength, colour, beauty and staple length thus, can be used for various purposes. In the leaf sheaths, coarse and strong fibres are found on the outer ones, fine and silky in the inner most ones and those of the middling quality in the intermediate ones. The core, from the roots to the point of its emergence from the covering of the false stem contains an extremely white fine fibre. The fruit stems contain fibres of a rough variety, while the midribs of the leaves yield a fibre of exceptional strength and durability when properly processed.



Manufacture:

Fibre is extracted from the leaf sheath or pseudostem of the banana plant by decortication of the sheath.
It can be extracted by hand scraping, by retting, by using raspador machines; it can be extracted chemically, for example by boiling in NaOH solution. Extraction of the fibre for local use (in cordage) or for cottage industries in India has been through manual means. The manual process is adopted in the Phillipines and is called stripping. On the plantation site, the plant stems are desheathed, the sheaths flattened, a knife inserted between the outer and middle layer, and a 50-80mm wide strip is separated and pulled off along the length. The strip is called as a tuxy and the separation procedure is called tuxying .

Two methods of tuxying are employed in Philippines. In the first method- Bacnis method, the trunks are pulled apart and the sheath separated according to their position in stalk. They are then flattened and the fibre is stripped from the stem by cutting the pulpy portion and pulling away the tuxy. In second method , the tuxies are pulled off the stalk from one sheath at a time. In either of these methods tuxies are tied into bundles of 23 to 27 kg and brought to the stripping knife for cleaning. In India,Dew retting and water retting are the methods most commonly adopted.

After the harvesting of the fruits, the tree is cut as near to the ground as possible. The foliage is removed by cutting away. Two or three outer sheaths are removed and rejected. Inserting a knife lengthwise strips of 7.5 cm or so in breath are prepared. These are scraped to yield strands either manually or using a motorized spindle. A Raspodos machine can also be used. The fibres contain acidic matter which is removed by hackling. The hackle consists of steel needles mounted on a small board. This reduces the strands into individual fibres. The fibres are then washed and rinsed in clean water and spread out in the shade to dry. The second process to remove the acids is to soak the strands in a well, tank or running water for a few hours. The third process is to soak the strands in dilute alkali or soap solution. The strands are then rinsed in cold water, wrung, rinsed and spread out to dry. When semi dry they are hackled and the fibres are spread out to dry in the shade.
Application:

The stronger fibres are ideal for cordages while the weaker white inner fibres are best suited for value added fancy items. They are being produced and exported in India from Kerala. The fibre is suitable for manufacturing strings, ropes, cords, cables and ship building thread. It can also be used to make sacks and packing fabrics as well as mats and rugs.
Banana Fibre can be used as fibre to manufacture fabrics. It is being used for making bags, table mats, ropes and twines. It can be blended with cotton or viscose fibre to produce blended fabric. Since Banana fibre is fully plant origin natural product, it has very good compatibility with other natural fibres like cotton, Coir, Pineapple fibres and Jute in blending. Banana fibre can also be dyed easily like other natural fibres and cloth made from it can also be dyed and printed like cotton cloth. It has good strength and has silk like luster. It can partly replace cotton fibre and hence we can estimate potential for it on the line of estimating demand for cotton fibre. It may be noted that good quality Banana fibre is having strength and luster like silk and in the Philippines various garments are already manufactured from Banana fibres. Apart from it, Philippines is exporting huge quantity of ready-made garments like shirts, kimonos, gowns, nightwear etc.
The banana fibres were reported to be elegant and highly versatile. As they do not crumple easily, these fibres have been used in the manufacture of dress materials. The fineness of texture depends on the quality of the fibre used. The material has a beautiful sheen and is used for making wedding gowns and barongs. 
Hand-extracted fibres have been used to produce handbags, wall hangings, table mats and other fancy articles. The fibre can be powdered and different colors of fibre obtained using natural dyes, which can be made into beautiful pictures. Portraits drawn and filled with colorful banana fibre chips have become popular in the handicraft industry in Mizoram, India, and have good potential in the export market.Thus, this fibre is having very good potential. It can be blended with other natural fibres or synthetic fibres without any problem to produce large varieties of garments from this fibre.

However, the inherent drawback of banana fibre is its poor quality and higher irregularity, owing to the multi-cellular nature of the fibres. The individual cells are cemented with lignin and hemi-cellulose and thus form a composite fibre. Banana fibre is classified as medium quality fibre and performs very well in combination with other fibres for making fine articles like handicrafts, currency, etc.


Reference:

1.        G.K.Ghosh, Non Conventional Textiles in India, APH Publishing Corporation, 2000, p 89 99.
2.       J.Gordon Cook, Handbook of Textile Fibres, Vol I Natural Fibres, Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2001, p 27.
3.       Fibre plants for making paper, A. Balasubramanian and ShyamalaKanakarajan, The Hindu.
4.       MenachemLewin, Handbook of Fiber Chemistry, Marcel Dekker Inc., 2nd Edition, p 508 519.




Wednesday 8 April 2015

Abaca Fiber




Abaca Fiber

Abaca is the Spanish name for Manila hemp. It is a member of banana family of plants. There is a growing concern for environmental protection and conservation everywhere. Abaca production treads lightly on the environment as processed by hand and is biodegradable. Abaca also prevents erosion and suppresses weeds and also a excellent crop rotator because it leaves the soil richer in nitrogen deposits. More people are getting curious and interested to know more about the expanded applications of natural fibers in our life. Contemporary and wearable collection can be fashioned from abaca fiber, which is acceptable to both young and old generation.

Harvesting of stalk usually take place between 18-24 months from the first shoots. Each of the stalks is about 12-20 feet high and fiber is stripped from the stem rather than leaf. Fibers recovery varies from 1.5% - 2 %by weight of the freshly cut stalks. The Abaca fibers are then left out to dry naturally in the sun. The outer leaves of the plant are wider and contain more but coarser fiber than the inner leaves.

The best grade of abaca is fine, lustrous, light beige in color and is very strong. The official standard grades of abaca fiber are divided into three classes depending on the manner of extraction. Hand stripping, spindle stripping or decortications. Quality is then determined by color, texture, fiber length, and strength and cleaning. It can also be blended with other fibers like silk, cotton,  polyester, Lycra etc.
Some of the valued characteristics of Abaca fiber includes:
·         Fire resistance
·         Abrasion resistance
·         Rodent and insect resistance
·         Strong when it is wet
·         Breathable because of its porous property
·         Comfortable to use
·         Durable
·         Lustrous Color
·         Non-slipping
·         Anti static qualities
Application: Besides denim, other woven material like shirt blouse, trousers, can be made with abaca fiber.

Courtesy : Article by Vasant R Kothari, Asst Prof.,NIFT Bangalore
http://imgusr.tradekey.com/p-B1678454-20090719175522/hinabol-abaca-fiber.jpg

Wednesday 1 April 2015

Is Green The New Black: Sustainability- Preference or Pre condition for Su...

Is Green The New Black: Sustainability- Preference or Pre condition for Su...: The ambition of Sustainability in Textile Industry is to maintain environmenta...

Sustainability- Preference or Pre condition for Survival?





The ambition of Sustainability in Textile Industry is to maintain environmentally friendly solutions during various stages of textile production, balancing the equilibrium of nature and environment. Key objective is to minimize, rather eliminate the usage of harmful and toxic chemicals, causing adverse environmental effect in the textile industry. This also seeks to reduce the consumption of the water and energy. Now the biggest challenge for the industry lies in controlling environmental pollution and manufacturing  sustainable products.
The following concerns need to be considered:
·         Minimum utilization of resources including water and energy.
·         Reduce the usage of natural resources.
·         Reduce the level of pollution by adhering to sustainability guidelines.
·         Eliminate the utilization of toxic and harmful chemicals from the textile processes.
·         Reduce the usage of chemicals.
·         Minimize CO2 reduction to stop emission of Green House Gases (GHG’s).
·         Maintain the safety standards.

Adidas was one of the first companies to move towards sustainability. Being into sourcing of sportswear and casuals in huge volumes, it is affordable to be conscious of people and planet interest while being a profitable business too.
Pic Credit : http://www.4us2be.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Green-Earth.jpg
Courtesy : A fibre 2 fashion Initiative

Tuesday 31 March 2015

Is Green The New Black






Is Green   The New Black                                     
Black has been dominating the fashion segment for a long time. With the wake of eco friendly lifestyle, sustainable fashion; ideally mentioned as ‘Green Fashion’ is now empowering the black trend.
Textile Industry is the most ecologically harmful industry in the globe. Hazardous practices followed during the production process such as bleaching, dyeing, etc releases toxins that swells into ecosystem. When a part of the eco system is contaminated, its impact is felt by all. Hence being sustainable is essential for the health of our environment and also for the well being of future generation.
Sustainability is new Fashion
The concept of sustainability is going through a magical transformation. Shedding its initial impression of coarse fabric, boring colors and unappealing look, it is now taking pride by being the preferred choice of ramp walk models, and fashion designers. Global trends are driven by customer’s preferences towards an ethical lifestyle.
Fashion designers from all over the world are showcase their collections made from natural fibers such as hemp, bamboo, etc. Raw materials for their apparels are made from organic substances, reused materials, recycled fabrics, and apparels made without involving harmful chemicals or bleaches. These garments are also made in save working conditions which does not damage the health of the workers and are also ensured that they get fair wages. This spreads charisma to the emerging green division of the fashion segment.


Pic Credits :http://www.greenplanet.net/system/files/abbigliamento%20bio_0.jpg